Scientist from Paços de Ferreira “plays” with cells and manages to change the hair shape and color without using chemicals

"Everyone thought Teresa Matamá was going to be a doctor, but she always dreamed of finding answers to something that has no solution. And she did. She graduated in Biochemistry and is part of a team that led a project that could contribute to reducing cases of cancer in Portugal and in the world"

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"Changing the shape and color of the hair, without using traditional chemical products, was what Teresa Matamá, from Paços de Ferreira, who is a researcher at CEB – Center for Biological Engineering, University of Minho. After “more than ten years of work” and integrating a team led by professor Artur Cavaco-Paulo, the scientist, along with other members of the team, joined the history by having developed cosmetic formulations that, at this moment, have been submitted to an international patent application, with the aim of modifying the color or shape of the hair from the root.

Teresa Matamá is 46 years old, married, and a mother of three who lives in Paços de Ferreira. Every day he travels between his hometown and Braga, where the research center that carried out this study is located.

In an interview with Verdadeiro Olhar, the researcher explained that in this equation, the researchers wanted to “find alternatives to so-called traditional cosmetics that change the shape and color of the hair” and that “use aggressive components”.

Formulas that will make it possible to “reduce the frequency of using dyes and straightening/perm products that, in addition to causing damage to the hair fiber, contain chemicals that, when in contact with the scalp, can trigger local adverse reactions”, such as “reactions inflammatory and allergic conditions” that can lead to “dermatitis and hair loss”, he explained.

Some studies even point to an association between the frequency of use of the aforementioned traditional cosmetics and an increased risk of the development of various types of cancer, such as breast cancer.

That is why, in the laboratory, they put on their lab coats, got down to work and, through a ''game'' performed with cells, studied the "effect potential of several molecules in the color and shape of the hair and if they imprinted alterations on them”. With regard to color, the idea was to “inhibit or stimulate the production of melanin” which is the pigment produced by the body and responsible for coloring.

Through a hair serum containing some of these molecules, it was then possible to “change the production of this pigment”, he stressed.

The study is a “starting point for an alternative
to products that are harmful”
and which have been associated with the development of some
types of cancers

But we are talking about a “preliminary study”, so the changes, although visible, “are tenuous, but will serve as a “starting point” for an alternative to such harmful products, specified the scientist.

The shape was also the subject of study, and in this case, first, the comparison of “genes expressed between a type of hair and other". In this context, the work turned out to be more complex, because “little is known about what is behind straight or curly hair”, with little information on this matter.

After a lot of work, the team of researchers was able to discover a little more about what causes “different degrees of curvature in the hair fiber” and “model the activity of some of these genes, through the treatment of the hair root cells with certain molecules, sometimes bringing the activity profile closer to that found in straight or wavy hair”, explained the researcher, adding that both these studies are completed and internationally patented.

But the career of this scientist was not always related to these areas. After graduating in Biochemistry, Teresa Matamá worked in a molecular diagnostic laboratory for neurodegenerative diseases, which affect movement and motor coordination. Speaking to Verdadeiro Olhar, she acknowledged that this phase of his life “was very intense”, mainly because he had to “deal with prenatal molecular diagnoses”, for example.

She ended up “running away” from anything that involved dealing, even if in a very indirect way, with the human suffering that such hereditary pathologies entail and that is hidden behind each tested sample.

She developed his doctoral work in Textile Biotechnology, dedicating himself to the study of synthetic fibers, from an environmental perspective, an area where he emotionally said he felt “more comfortable”. And this change of course ended up taking her to other paths, such as being part of this research project.

But let''s go back in time. A successful future began to emerge when Teresa Matamá was still studying at Paços de Ferreira. Good grades supported the medical course. In fact, “everyone said that this was the way to go”, he recalled. But the premature death of an uncle who was a doctor made her rethink what she wanted to do. "I was very scared and sure it wasn''t that way," she confessed.

“I always wanted to look and find answers
for something that has no solution at present”

But not wanting to follow Medicine, he had one certainty, the desire to “seek and find answers to something that has no solution” at present. And that''s when he decided to pursue the area of investigation.

The scientist loves what she does and feels fulfilled in her work, pointing only the finger at the “lack of stability”, because “we depend, not only on funding for the work projects we develop and our own salary but also on the modernity of the time ”. And in this last item, he gives the example of the 2030 Agenda, where several objectives and goals were defined with priority in a global management model of research funds, which are the pillars of sustainable development that are wanted for the planet. Now, “whatever does not fit into these themes, does not get funding”, underlines Teresa Matamá who regrets that researchers “have to always go after funds” which are often difficult to obtain, implying a constant adaptation and resilience.

“If I didn’t have family support, I wouldn’t be able to have
such an unstable job (like research) and far from home”

We cannot forget that, in addition to life in the laboratory, these people have “commitments, children, and family”. In fact, Teresa Matamá can only work in Braga, far from home, because she can count on “her husband, who works in Paredes, and her parents and in-laws”, who together are her “family support”. Otherwise, “it would be impossible to have such an unstable job far from home”.

Perhaps, in the near future, the working conditions for these professionals, who are at the service of science, will change. Unfortunately, it''s not in their hands to find that solution.

But, until that happens, we are sure that the investigation is a herculean task, becoming “very exhausting”, assured the researcher.

Only, and despite these setbacks, this scientist from Paços de Ferreira guarantees that she will continue to work and bring us solutions to many of our anxieties and problems."

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